PATTAYA,

This jewel is tucked away in a city usually known for its Portuguese restaurants, but the menu here draws from Vietnamese, Cambodian, Chinese and Thai cuisines. Among the appetizers, the Thai chicken wings with lemon grass ($5.95) were unusual enough to appeal to those of us who aren't big wings fans. The sweet-and-sour fish, Thai Style ($14.95) ""one of the "House Specials""" was an exquisitely fried striped bass served with a savory sauce of sliced garlic, onions and green tomatoes. And the plentiful grated raw ginger in the squid and shrimp with ginger ($7.50) was a memorable treatment of common menu items. Another pleasant surprise was the orange Thai iced tea ($1.50).